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Nov 07, 2009 (The Kansas City Star - McClatchy-Tribune Information Services via COMTEX) -- Lura Dannenbrock has her Denny's lunch order down pat. A "Better Burger" -- 100 percent seasoned beef patty, hand-pressed, grilled, with Swiss cheese and sauteed mushrooms.

At $6.99 with drink and fries, it's a deal the Lowry, Mo., resident can't pass up.

"They're a very good value for the price, but I also want it to taste good," said Dannenbrock, dining recently at the Denny's restaurant at Blue Ridge Cutoff.

Americans have long craved the humble burger -- turning it into a sizzling $100 billion dining category annually. But in these bleak economic times, it turns out consumers are shelling out more for higher quality, bulkier burgers that go beyond the traditional toppings.

Diners who may have been ordering the occasional steak or more expensive dish are downsizing to burgers but still want quality meat. Others may just recognize a good meal deal when they see one.

This premium burger segment is heating up with fast-food, fast-casual, mid-scale and upscale operators trying to capture a growing portion of the patty market, according to Nation's Restaurant News, a trade publication.

Nationwide, the number of restaurants overall offering burgers has increased by more than 4 percent since 2005, but in the fine-dining category, burgers jumped nearly 19 percent during the same time span, according to data-research company Datassential.

During a down economy, diners look for value and comfort, said Maeve Webster, a managing director for the Los Angeles-based company.

"Absolutely, comfort food takes center stage," she said.

Kansas City has launched at least three locally owned gourmet burger operations in the last three years:

--Chefburger, in the Kansas City Power & Light District, whips up short rib, brisket, and sirloin burgers (along with spiked milkshakes and fried green beans).

--At Blanc Burgers + Bottles -- Westport, Leawood, and soon the Country Club Plaza and Lee's Summit -- consumers might chomp down on the American Kobe or bison burger. These burgers are so good the restaurant earned a mention in Zagat Survey's "2010 America's Top Restaurants" book.

--Shawnee's Big Bam's specializes in distinct toppings -- Cancun dressing, jalapenos, black olives, pepper jack cheese, barbecue sauce.

"I don't want to say we were ahead of the ball by any means, but it worked out that way," said Joe Bacarro, owner of Big Bam's. "We wanted to offer something unique."

Denver-based Smashburger, one of Nation's Restaurant News' five 2009 Hot Concept Winners, plans Overland Park and Lawrence locations next summer. It also concentrates on cooked-to-order 100 percent Angus beef burgers, smashed (thus the name), seared and seasoned on the grill.

Premium patties also are popping up on the midpriced menus of Applebee's Grill & Bar (A-1 Steakhouse Burger with cracked peppercorn and crispy onion straws) and Chili's Grill & Bar (100 percent USDA-choice ground chuck, fresh-never-frozen, hand-formed in the restaurant).

"Burgers have been a staple on our menu since the brand was introduced in 1975 so it is something we wanted to capitalize on and give our customers a choice," said Maureen Locus, spokeswoman Chili's.

Fast-food operations are beefing up their menus to stay competitive with the upscale upstarts.

In August, McDonald's introduced the $3.99 Angus Third-Pounder (one-third pound of Angus beef with toppings such as mushrooms and Swiss cheese). Burger King plans to introduce its own version of the A-1 burger called The Steakhouse XT in early 2010.

"The economy is causing people to change how they spend their money, so people who might have been more inclined to go to a casual dining restaurant, we've given them a reason to choose McDonald's," said Neil Getzlow, spokesman for McDonald's.

It was just such a deal that sent Henry E. Lyons of Leawood to Denny's recently.

"I wanted the fish. I try to stay fit. But I had a coupon and decided to try the Better Burger," said Lyons, who sliced the bulky burger in two before attempting a bite. "It's good. I would recommend it. Next time I'll bring in one of my employees and we'll split a 20 percent off coupon."

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Did you know?

In 1921, real estate and insurance agent Edgar Waldo "Billy" Ingram teamed up with cook Walter Anderson to open the first White Castle hamburger stand in Wichita.

Anderson invented the modern hamburger when he cooked patties of ground meat on the griddle and served them with a mess of onions on a soft yeast bun. They sold for 5 cents each.

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Premium preference

Burgers are more likely to be considered "premium" if they are made with high-quality Angus, Wagyu, or sirloin, according to a survey of 2,250 Americans and Canadian consumers. Other survey results:

--About 75 percent of consumers ranked quality of meat as the first or second most important attribute in choosing a burger.

--Today, 27 percent of restaurant customers prefer to purchase burgers made with Angus beef, compared with 20 percent in 2007. And 19 percent of consumers reported they would prefer to purchase sirloin burgers, up from 13 percent in 2007.

McClatchy Newspapers contributed to this report. To reach Joyce Smith, call 816-234-4692 or send e-mail to jsmith@kcstar.com. Source: www.chow.com Source: Technomic, Chicago-based consultant

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Joyce Smith

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